Articles of Interest

I've collected a multitude of articles over the last few years specifc to the healthcare and other issues relative to the bulldog. Most have come from a Bulldog List that I've been on for several years. A breeder of English Bulldogs posts them regularly and she has given me permission to use these articles of interest. I hope we can all learn some new things every day. All of the articles on this page were received from Terri O'Connor of My Toy Bulldogs - The authors are listed when the information is available.

Other Articles of Interest on the Web

Genetics and Coat Colors

Dog genes tell surprising tales - By Kathleen Wren

Dog genes tell
surprising tales

Genetic study traces family tree
of canines; some ‘ancient’ breeds
turn out to be of recent origin

Science

The intense gaze of a border collie, known as "eye," is part of the breed's herding behavior. A genetic classification system for dog breeds may allow researchers to identify the genes that underlie such behaviors. This border collie is Tess, owned by genetics researcher Elaine Ostrander of the Fred Hutchinson Cancer Research Center and the University of Washington in Seattle.

By Kathleen Wren

Science

May 20, 2004 - What makes a dachshund different from a Doberman? A new study sheds light on the genetics underlying the low-slung dachshund, the powerful Doberman and other breeds through history.

By analyzing genetic samples from dogs of many shapes and sizes, a Seattle-based research team has shown how a dog’s genes can reveal its breed. A genetics-based classification system for breeds will allow researchers to study dog genes for diseases that have counterparts in humans and to piece together the evolutionary history of our closest companions.

Such a system may also mean that owners of purebred dogs and mutts alike may soon be able to document which breeds their dogs come from by simply sending a cheek swab or blood sample to a genetics lab.

The researchers found that classifying breeds according to their genetic similarities produced many results similar to traditional groupings but also revealed some unexpected connections. The findings appear in the journal Science, published by AAAS, the nonprofit science society.

Breed barriers
The rarefied world of dog competitions involves exacting requirements for a purebred’s physical appearance, but the pedigree is the bottom line. A dog can be registered with a certain breed only if both its parents were registered.

This meticulous attention to ancestry has erected “breed barriers,” ensuring that each breed is a relatively closed genetic pool. The genetic similarities within a breed should be a boon for efforts to find genes associated with disease, behaviors or other traits.

“Each breed is like the human population of a Finland or an Iceland, meaning there have been limitations on what’s gone into gene pool. So there may be 100 heart disease genes in dogs, but just one or two for a German shepherd or a border collie,” said study author Elaine Ostrander of the Fred Hutchinson Cancer Research Center and the University of Washington.

Understanding human diseases
Ostrander and her colleague Leonid Kruglyak, also of the Fred Hutchinson Cancer Research Center and the University of Washington, have proposed that dogs can offer unique opportunities for understanding human diseases, including cancer, heart disease and epilepsy, and conditions such as blindness and deafness.

Some of these diseases, such as certain cancers, occur naturally in dogs, whereas they must be induced in mice and rats.

These research efforts will also benefit from the sequencing of the dog genome, which is currently under way. In the meantime, Ostrander, Kruglyak and their colleagues can still study the genetic basis for diseases and other traits in dogs through comparing different breeds.

The Science authors frequented dog shows and other venues where dog owners allowed the researchers to collect cheek swabs and blood samples from their pets.

The researchers then analyzed various “marker” regions throughout the dogs’ genomes. In most every case, they could identify the dog’s breed solely from the variations in its genetic sequences. Identifying a mutt’s multiple breeds is a more complex problem, but Ostrander thinks this will be possible some day.

All in the family
Ostrander’s group used their genetic data to construct an evolutionary tree showing which breeds were most closely related. The tree contained three relatively recent groups and one ancient one.

The oldest group includes dogs whose origins date back to antiquity — the very oldest ones being from Asia, such as the shar-pei and the chow, and from Africa, such as the basenji. Others, like the Afghan, come from the Middle East, while the Siberian husky and others come from the Arctic. These dogs are also the most genetically similar to wolves.

It may seem surprising that dogs with such different appearances and geographical origins are so closely related, but it’s consistent with one hypothesis that dogs were first domesticated from wolves in Asia. Some researchers have proposed that the early dogs then migrated with nomadic human groups to Africa and the Arctic and around Asia.

Looks can be deceiving
The other breeds outside this group didn’t emerge until the around the 1800s, underscoring the fact that appearances can be deceiving. For example, a small fluffy Shih Tzu, which the authors assigned to the ancient group of Asian dogs, is more closely related to the wolf than a German shepherd is.

The authors’ results also turned up a couple of breeds that are in fact much younger than previously thought. The pharaoh hound and the Ibizan hound, for example, are commonly believed to have ancient origins. Not so, according to their genetics. These dogs appear to be “re-creations” bred more recently from combinations of other breeds.

“There are stories and histories for every breed. It’s interesting to figure out how much of that lore is accurate and what new relationships you can pull out that aren’t necessarily known from the history books,” said Kruglyak.

Genes and behavior
The three more recent breed groups the authors identified from their genetic data generally correspond to the type of work the dogs were bred for. The mastiffs, bulldogs and other bulky dogs in one group typically make good guard dogs. The herding group includes agile dogs like the border collie and the Shetland sheepdog. The third group of dogs includes terriers and a variety of other dogs bred for hunting.

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Many of the dogs in each group share certain behavioral traits as well as physical characteristics.

The tenacious herding dogs, for example, have a variety of tricks for controlling a flock, including a steely stare known as “eye,” nipping at the heels and barking.

“The herding dogs use different behavioral mechanisms to herd, but they all have ingrained the desire to collect and contain and to move herds long distances. They have body strength and stamina, plus the intelligence to be trained quite easily,” said Ostrander.

Ostrander and Kruglyak think that eventually the scientists will be able to identify the genes underlying certain canine behaviors.

“Whatever we say about disease can extend to interesting features of morphology and behavior. Now we have a real formula for grouping breeds together and statistical power for tracking down the genetic basis for these characteristics,” Ostrander said.

Type your title here.

Leptospirosis – The New Epidemic

B-Naturals Newsletter
By
Lew Olson,
PhD Natural Health, LMSW-ACP

February 2005

Leptospirosis- The New Epidemic

In the fall of 2003, one of my dogs started acting listless, and  
wouldn’t eat. He also started urinating more frequently and had a
constant craving for water. I took him in for routine tests which
included a complete blood panel and urinalysis. Everything looked
fine.  My veterinarian and I were baffled. The dog continued to get
worse and began to dehydrate. He lay curled in a ball and had a slight
fever. We started IV fluid therapy, but my vet had no idea what he was
looking at or how to treat it. We tried a series of lab tests which
included a tick disease panel and fungal panels. All came back 
negative.

In desperation, I started searching the Internet for any illness I could
find with these symptoms. One thing started popping up over and over, and
it was leptospirosis. However, all the sites I read talked about elevated
liver enzymes, which did not show up in this dog's blood panel results.

Then, another one of my dogs became sick with the same symptoms. I went
back to researching leptospirosis and found that there were nine
different strains, and two of them did not affect the liver, but had a
delayed reaction in attacking the kidneys. While the first dog’s kidney
levels were fine, I had my vet re-test them. And there it was -- this dog
had elevated BUN, creatinine and phosphorus. We quickly took a blood
sample from both dogs and sent them off for a lepto titer. This test took
several days, so we went ahead and started both dogs on Penicillin which
is the treatment of choice for lepto. We continued the IV therapy for
both dogs, as leptospirosis in any form causes dehydration. Re-hydrating
an affected dog is paramount for treatment.

The tests came back positive for both dogs for a strain of leptospirosis
called Grippotyphosa. It also showed another strain called Pomona, but
often one or more strains will show up as a cross positive. It is the
highest titer number which is the strain that is involved. My
veterinarian was shocked, but I was relieved to know that we now had a
diagnosis and a protocol for a treatment course.

I hope this article provides you with information about leptospirosis,
its symptoms, diagnosis, treatment and prevention. Most veterinarians are
familiar with the two most common forms of leptospirosis, but the newer
strains are often missed in diagnosis and simply seen as chronic renal
failure. With the correct diagnosis, leptospirosis is not only treatable,
but treatment is highly successful.

What is Leptospirosis?

It is a bacterium, most commonly found in urine from affected
animals. Dogs can get this from drinking stagnant water or licking areas
where affected animals have urinated. Male dogs are more commonly
affected than females (probably due to their habits).  Also, dogs
with lowered immune systems are also vulnerable. Lepto is most common in
the spring and fall, or during a rainy season. It typically can't survive
when temperatures are above 80 degrees or when it freezes.

Since I live in Texas, summers are too hot for these bacteria to survive.
Both of my dogs contracted lepto in late October. After careful
observation, we realized they had probably gotten this disease from the
squirrels in our yard. Rats and other wildlife can also carry this
disease.

It takes 4 to 12 days from transmission of this disease to the dog
showing symptoms.

Symptoms of Leptospirosis

First symptoms are usually lethargy, minor fever and shivering. This
fever can increase to 104 or 105. The dog will refuse to eat and may show
painful joints or muscles. Some may get reddening or infection of the
eyes. Two types of leptospirosis known as Pomona and icterohaemorrhagiae
will show elevated liver enzymes and possibly symptoms of jaundice. But
in the two strains that are less common, kidney blood levels will elevate
along with the symptoms of frequent urination and increased water
consumption. These are known as L. canicola and L. grippotyphosa.
Grippotyphosa was once thought to be uncommon, but in 1998 several dogs
became ill in Long lsland, NY. Almost 150 were found infected with the
grippotyphosa strain. It was thought this strain was isolated to the NE,
but now it has been reported throughout the United States and Canada.

Diagnosis

This is done with a blood sample sent off to a laboratory for a
leptospirosis titer. This will measure the amount of leptospirosis
antibodies present in the blood sample along with identifying the correct
strain. Note that lepto titers often will not increase until the dog is
in the recovery phase. If you test when the dog first becomes ill, the
results may not be accurate, so when lepto is suspected, it is best to
begin treatment with penicillin and fluids immediately, then confirm the
diagnosis with a titer test a week or two later.

Treatment

The first action is IV therapy. This is needed to take care of the
severe dehydration, as well as keep the kidneys functioning well. Both of
my dogs were on IV therapy for five to seven days. Penicillin is the
antibiotic of choice. Generally treatment is recommended for three weeks.
Doxycycline is followed for another two to three weeks, as this will stop
the bacteria from being shed and transmitted in the dog’s urine.

Prevention

Some modes of prevention are to make sure that any areas that the
dogs are kept are drained well and that there is no standing water.
Protect water bowls and buckets from squirrels and other wildlife. At
present, there are vaccinations for four strains of leptospirosis.
However, these vaccinations are only good for about four months, and the
lepto vaccine does have many side effects, which include anaphylactic
shock. Due to the necessity of repeated vaccinations and its serious side
effects, the Kansas State University of Veterinary Medicine no longer
supports vaccinating for this disease. They state:

1)  The disease has become quite rare in the urban dog.

2)  A more important reason is the frequency with which we see
hives, facial swelling and even life-threatening vaccination reactions
called anaphylaxis when we give vaccine “cocktails” that contain
leptospirosis bacteria. The “L” in DHLP, the most common vaccine
cocktail, stands for leptospirosis. These reactions can be very mild or
severe enough to cause death. These reactions do not occur on the initial
vaccination but do increasingly on succeeding vaccinations.

3)  The third reason is that the vaccines against leptospirosis are
not that effective in preventing the disease and may actually facilitate
carrier states.

Given this information, it would be up to the dog owner to decide the
best option for their dogs. I personally have decided not to vaccinate,
and instead I watch for symptoms and keep myself familiar with the
symptoms of leptospirosis. I know that it is treatable with penicillin,
but it must be caught quickly to make treatment effective. I cannot make
this recommendation for everyone, and each of us has to make the best
decision and responsible choice for where we live, the health of our dogs
and of course, to not spread this disease to other dogs. Do note that
leptospirosis is most common in spring and fall, so vaccinations would
need to be made accordingly. Also, if one dog has it in your home,
chances are that all of your dogs are affected. They may not show the
symptoms, but they are most likely carriers of this disease. Since I own
15 dogs, it means I had to treat the rest of my dogs with penicillin and
then follow up with doxycycline. This was not inexpensive, but certainly
necessary to keep all the dogs healthy, but also to make sure they
weren't carrying this disease to spread to other dogs. Note that
vaccinations do not cover all strains of lepto, so even if your dogs have
been vaccinated recently, they can still get the disease.

Here are some links to web sites with more information on leptospirosa in
dogs:

http://www.veterinarypartner.com/Content.plx?P=A&A=573

http://www.vetmedpub.com/cp/pdf/roundtables/ftdodge.pdf

http://www.ivis.org/advances/Infect_Dis_Carmichael/mcdonough/chapter_frm.asp?LA=1

For support of the dogs during recovery,EPA fish oil given at 1,000 mg per ten pounds of body weight

is suggested, as it is renal supportive.

Berte’s Immune Blend would also be helpful for the antioxidants, digestive enzymes and acidophilus.

COQ10  given at one mg per pound of body weight is also important to help bring down an increased

creatinine level. B complex is also suggested to help support the kidneys, although this is already

in the Berte’s Immune Blend.

For more information on diet and supplements that are helpful for a dog in acute renal failure, check

my article on that here:  http://b-naturals.com/May2004.php

 
QUIZ QUESTIONS FOR FEBRUARY (Answers follow below)

1. Vitamin D is not common in many foods, but it can be found in all these foods except:

A. Liver
B. Mackerel
C. Yogurt
D. Eggs

2. BSE is found in what parts of the body of the cow:

A. Brain and spinal cord
B. Muscle meat, including heart
C. Organ meat (liver, kidneys, etc.)
D. Tripe

3) For dogs, a vegetarian diet would lack all but which of the following nutrients?

A. Taurine
B. Vitamin A
C. Vitamin B-12
D. Calcium
E. L-Carnitine

4) Which of these nutrients enhances iron absorption?

A. Vitamin C
B. Bran
C. Fiber
D. Soy protein

5) Good supplements recommended for support of the liver include all these except:

A. Vitamin E
B. Salmon Oil
C. Rimadyl
D. Milk Thistle
E) SAM-e

ANSWERS TO QUIZ QUESTIONS:
 
Question 1: C. Although milk is fortified with vitamin D, other dairy products, such as yogurt and cheese,

do not have vitamin D, either added or naturally.  http://www.cc.nih.gov/ccc/supplements/vitd.html#food

Question 2: A. BSE (mad cow disease) only affects the brain and spinal cord. To the best of our knowledge,

dogs cannot contract this disease at all, although a few cats have been shown to be infected.

Question 3: B. Actually, this is a bit of a trick question, since even vitamin A, while present in plants

in the form of beta-carotene), may well be deficient in a vegetarian diet that does not include eggs

and dairy, especially since the conversion of beta-carotene to vitamin A may not be something that all

dogs do well (and cats cannot do at all).  Taurine and l-carnitine are found only in animal tissue. In

that past, it has been thought that these were not essential to dogs, but new research is finding that at

least some dogs develop DCM (Dilated Cardiomyopathy) when they do not get enough of these nutrients.

Vitamin B-12 is found in meat, eggs, and dairy products, but not in plants.  In addition to a vegetarian

diet being low in calcium, the phytates in grains blocks calcium absorption, requiring a higher amount

of calcium intake in order to meet requirements.

http://www.burns-pet-nutrition.co.uk/Articles/vegetarian_diets.htm

http://www.vetmed.ucdavis.edu/CCAH/Update06-2/6-2_Taurine.html

http://www.walthamusa.com/articles/wf102fre.pdf

http://www.sunnysidefarm.com/cardio.html

http://www.vegsoc.org/info/b12.html

http://www.vegsoc.org/info/dogfood2.html -- note this site recommends a vegetarian diet, but their diet

includes eggs and dairy products.

http://www.newhope.com/nutritionsciencenews/NSN_backs/Oct_01/pufa.cfm

"In addition, canines can make vitamin A from beta-carotene, but the extent to which they do depend on age,

breed, and health."

Question 4: A.  While Vitamin C aids in the absorption of iron, bran, fiber and soy protein all inhibit

iron absorption.
http://www.fda.gov/bbs/topics/CONSUMER/CON00138.html  "These vegetarians are susceptible to iron

deficiency anemia because they are not only missing the more readily absorbed iron from animal flesh,

they are also likely to be eating many foods with constituents that inhibit iron absorption--soy protein,

bran, and fiber, for instance."

Question 5:  C.  Rimadyl, which can cause liver damage in some dogs with extended use.

PRODUCT SPECIALS

Specials are good for the entire month of February 2005!!

Free Freight Friday is February 18, 2005: Any orders placed on this day only over $75.00 will be shipped freight free (continental US only) via UPS Ground. Mark this date on your calendar! NOTE: Qualifying orders will have freight deducted at the time the order is shipped and processed.
A-Z CoQ10 30mg softgels, 60 count, #05167, regularly $10.95, promotional price $9.15
Berte’s Green Blend, 16 oz., #8001, regularly $13.95, promotional price $12.58

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Where Even A Small Star Shines In The Darkness

How Does The Dog’s Coat Get Renewed? by E.Pacitto

A dog’s coat has several functions:- thermal insulation;- protection against injuries, UV sunlight;- social role for the dog (that raises its hackles when there is a conflict), and for the owner, very sensitive to the aspect and the beauty of his dog.

Any alteration of the coat should be taken as an alarming sign, but this sign is not specific at all. The hair is told to be “the health’s mirror”. Dull or brittle hair can be caused by a dietary unbalance, but also by various diseases from digestive, hepatic, renal, thyroidal, immune, or parasitic origin… These alterations appear rather late in the course of the disease, as hair growth is rather slow. It is the same for the dietary supplements that aim at improving the aspect of the coat: 4 weeks at least are necessary before their effects become obvious. Let’s study some data about anatomy and physiology of the hair.

In dogs, follicles are compound ones. There is 1 central follicle that produces primary hair or guard hair. There are 2 lateral ones, that produce 5 to 25 secondary hair each, also called under hair.

Cyclic activity of the hair follicle

There are 3 steps in the cyclic activity of the hair follicle:
- a growth phase;
- an intermediate phase;
- a resting phase.

The duration of the growth phase is determined genetically, and varies according to the hair length, i.e. according to the breeds and the individuals. The longer the coat, the slower the growth is.

During the intermediate phase, the matrix cells stop multiplying. Pigments synthesis stops and the upper part of the hair becomes white.

During the resting phase the hair is still there, but only anchored by a keratin internal root sheath. It will fall when the follicle comes back to the growth phase; then, a new hair will push the old one out.

In Dog as in Man, the follicle activity is independent from its neighbor ones, so the coat renewal takes place imperceptibly. However, the proportions of the hair in the different phases vary considerably, from one season to another.

At spring (May-June), and at fall (November-December), 90 % of the hairs are in growth phase. When a new hair push an old one out, it is shedding time. At fall, shedding gives birth to a longer, thicker coat. On the contrary, at spring, lots of follicles get atrophied after hair fall.

The determinism of the follicular cycle

Of course, health and beauty of the hair rely on the balance of the diet: proteins (rich in sulfurated amino-acids), essential fatty acids, cupper, B vitamins (…) intake must be regular and sufficient. But other elements are also very important.

More than temperature fluctuations, the duration of daylight has got much influence: probably through secretion of melatonin by the hypothalamus.

Other hormonal factors can interfere:
- thyroidal hormones and growth hormone stimulate the activity of the hair follicles, whereas corticoids and sexual hormones slow it down;
- when the prolactine level stays high in the blood (hormone produced by lactating bitches), the coat looks like the summer one, rather thin and sparse.

Conclusion

At last, any stress is likely to put all the follicles in resting phase. Then, abnormal shedding is observed 2 – 3 months after the stressful event (disease, anesthesia, drug administration), when the follicles start to be active again.

How we confuse our pups

We know the rules of human interaction, but we are considerably less clear on how to communicate with our puppies. And since puppies don't come with instructions attached (be nice if they did) our human-to-human communication patterns, as baffling as they are to our puppies, are what we fall back on. Word repetition, word inconsistency, using a questioning tone and increasing frustration when we don't get the expected results are human habits that are not helpful to our puppy's learning process – in fact, they can slow learning down.

Repetition

With another person, we may repeat things when we don't get a response the first time. "Excuse me? Excuse me?" is a typical example. However, to a puppy, repetition is simply confusing. If you issue a command and your pup doesn't respond, there are two possibilities. Your pup did not hear you, which is rare, or your pup did not understand, which is common. Repeating yourself to a pup who does not understand you only confuses things further. Instead, be prepared to help your pup once you say a command. This may mean guiding him into position physically, or luring him with a treat or toy, and then rewarding him. There is no need to get upset with your puppy if he doesn't understand. Remember, your pup is not trying to be difficult.

Inconsistency

Pups only learn what we teach them. They don't understand words, so when we say "sit" in one instance and "sit down" in another, and mean the same thing, our puppies can become completely confused.

How about your expectations – are you consistent with them? Do you ever say "sit" and not follow through? Do you ever say "sit" and, if your pup lies down, you shrug and think, "Close enough." If you do this you're not helping your puppy; you're just confusing him further. The clearer your pup is about what you want and when you want it, the better.

Questioning

Humans mask commands to each other with questioning tones. "Honey," you call your spouse, "Would you mind picking up some bread on your way home?" That is polite. That is nice. That is confusing to pups who understand tone better than words. A more effective approach is to state a command as if you are giving directions. "Go down three blocks and turn right," would be an appropriate tone for "pup, sit." That is calm, clear and confident – perfect!

Frustration

When pups fail to understand our communication patterns we can become frustrated with them, instead of with ourselves. Next time your pup does not respond the way you hoped he would, ask yourself the following questions: Was I clear? Have we practiced this many times (think dozens of times) in a calm environment? Does he consistently respond in a calm environment? What was my tone? How can I help him understand what I want? How can I make it fun for him to respond?

Since you are the teacher, your pup reflects your teaching. If you are unhappy with his response, look to ways you can help make things easier for him to understand. Using training as a way to build on the positive is an effective puppy-training strategy.

How do you show your adolescent puppy that you are the leader of the pack?

Dogs are pack animals. It's important that your puppy recognizes his role in the pack - and your role as "leader of the pack". During adolescence some puppies may act like they have forgotten that you are the pack leader. How do you remind your good puppy, who may be acting badly, that you are the "alpha dog"? The following article will give you tips on how to show your leadership - and how this makes for a happier and well-adjusted puppy.

How does the leader of the pack act?

As the leader of the pack, you never raise your voice in anger. Screaming at your puppy communicates to him that you are out of control, and doesn't instill confidence in your role as a leader. The same goes with the use of physical force.

You must be consistent with your puppy. This isn't always easy. Sometimes you might not be in the mood to discipline your puppy. Maybe your puppy has just ripped a cushion open, and the sight of him in the middle of your living room floor covered with feathers is so cute that you laugh – and then reach for your camera. Tempting as this might be, it's a good idea not to accept any behavior from your puppy that you wouldn't want to see again, now or when he's an adult dog. Many puppy-owners have trouble with this. They don't want to come off as heavy-handed, and they don't want to curb their puppy's natural behavior. It's important to remember that what may be cute in your puppy now may not be so cute when he is 3 times bigger.

Don't neglect to correct your puppy's behavior when necessary. Correct his behavior by saying "no!" in a clear voice and withhold your attention for a short time. Your puppy needs to know that he can trust your direction. If you wait to correct his behavior he won't associate the correction with his bad behavior, and may be confused by the mixed messages he is getting. The same goes for praising your puppy when his behavior is good.

Remember that each puppy is different. Some will be submissive while others may challenge their role in the pack, especially during adolescence. Regardless of what kind of puppy you have, it's necessary for your puppy to understand his role, and your role.

A few more tips to show your puppy that you are the "alpha dog"

Train your puppy to sit while you are eating, instead of begging for table scraps. Feed your puppy after you have eaten. This shows him that you come first and he is submissive to you.
Don't make excuses for your puppy when he ignores a command. And never give a command you are not prepared to enforce.
Spend time with your puppy. This is the best way to understand him, and being the leader of the pack is not a substitute for creating an affectionate bond with your puppy.

Remember, being the leader of the pack is not a bad role. It doesn't mean that you are constantly correcting your puppy. It means that you are setting clearly defined rules for your puppy, and this helps him become a well-adjusted dog and pleasant companion.

Vaccinations: Know what You’re Using - By Theresa Shea, editor

As a dog breeder, imagine yourself sitting down in a “vaccine” restaurant.

Be selective when deciding which vaccines to use and how often to administer them to your dogs. Boston Terrier.
Credit: Isabelle Francais.

When you open the menu to view your choices of vaccines, you might be surprised at the number of options before you. You could be further shocked by a list of ingredients included in each vaccine. When it comes time to order, which vaccines will you select for your dogs, and how often will you administer them?

At a recent American Kennel Club and AKC Canine Health Foundation Breeder Symposium at the North Carolina State College of Veterinary Medicine, Dr. Richard Ford asked dozens of dog breeders these questions and discussed canine vaccination protocols and what he considers a need to revise them.

“In the last decade, we’ve seen a rapid proliferation of companion animal vaccines introduced throughout the world. In North America today, there are approximately 25 types of canine vaccines to select from,” Ford said.

Ford, a professor of medicine at N.C. State, encouraged breeders to find out as much as they could about the exact ingredients in vaccines their dogs receive and to consider how often their dogs need to receive them.

“What should not occur is complacency with respect to selection and administration of vaccine,” Ford added. “The objective, quite simply, is to administer the most appropriate vaccines at the most appropriate stage of life and to do so with the best products available.”

Some breeders get prescriptions from their veterinarians and order vaccines to administer to their dogs themselves. Others have their veterinarians administer the vaccinations.

“I don’t know where you get your vaccines. You can get virtually any vaccine a vet can get and can buy doses of vaccines in feed stores,” Ford said. “There’s a thriving over-the-counter market, but there are some problems. I want you to know what you’re getting. …Don’t just follow catalog advice.”

“Look in your fridge and see. Make sure you know what you’re using,” Ford advised.

For example, there are numerous vaccines for kennel cough (infectious tracheobronchitis).

“What makes this really problematic is that there are four kinds of injectible forms and two kinds of intranasal forms,” Ford said. “Which do you use? Do you know? I think you’ve got to know.”

While a quarter century ago the most common vaccines had three viral antigens (distemper-hepatitis-leptospirosis), the vaccines routinely administered annually to dogs today have seven or more antigens, Ford explained.

“Polyvalent (or ‘mixed’) vaccines are routinely administered annually with seemingly little regard for the actual risk of infection,” Ford said. “Depending on the vaccine antigen, dogs are expected to derive protection that persists for as little as a few months to as long as seven or more years. Convenience, rather than science, appears to be the driving force behind conventional recommendations listed on vaccine labels (product inserts).”

Dr. Richard Ford urges breeders to "know what you're getting regarding canine vaccines."
Credit: Michael Mantini.

Ford explained that the vaccine menu breeders have to choose from is divided into three categories: CORE, Non-CORE, and Not Recommended. CORE vaccines are those every dog should receive. They include Distemper, recombinant Distemper, Parvovirus, Adenovirus-2, and Rabies. Non-CORE vaccines are optional vaccines, such as Parainfluenza, Bordetella bronchiseptica, Lyme borreliosis, Leptospirosis, and Disptemper-Measles, which breeders may wish to use based on known health risks. Vaccines such as Coronavirus, Giardia Lamblia, and Adenovirus-1 or the canine hepatitis vaccine are not recommended.

Most vaccine labels or package inserts recommend annual boosters.

“With the exception of the rabies vaccine, veterinarians are not legally bound to comply with annual booster recommendations listed by vaccine manufacturers on product inserts,” Ford said. “For virtually all of the vaccines designated CORE, a minimum duration of immunity has been reported to range from five to seven years. The maximum duration of immunity has not been established.”

Breeders should take into consideration their lifestyle, geographic location, dogs’ age, and whether certain diseases are prevalent where they live when deciding whether to administer Non-CORE vaccinations to their dogs.

“If you’re living south of southern Virginia, the odds of needing to vaccinate against Lyme disease fall precipitously,” Ford said.

Christine Weisse, a central North Carolina Labrador Retriever breeder, uses a veterinarian to administer vaccines to her dogs. Weisse discussed what she learned about vaccination protocols at the breeders’ symposium with her veterinarian.

“We gave our vet the information, and we’re definitely changing our way of doing shots,” Weisse said.

“For our older dogs, we’re just doing titers,” said Weisse. (A titer may indicate the standard strength of a dog’s antibodies.) “If their antibodies are high, we’re just giving them the CORE shots.”

“Our younger dogs get the CORE shots, Parvo, Distemper, Parainfluenza, and, of course, all our dogs will get the rabies shot every three years,” Weisse added.

You may visit Dr. Ford’s vaccination web site that outlines guidelines and protocols at www.dvmvac.com.

Health emergencies - in puppies

Puppy health emergencies are generally few and far between. But, when they do happen, they need to be acted on immediately. How do you know which symptoms to take seriously? Following are a few examples of situations that should send you directly to your veterinarian.

Listlessness

Healthy puppies are active. They play hard and they sleep hard. When they are awake, they are usually on the move, exploring their world. A pup who seems uninterested in the world, and who lies around with his ears and tail low, is a puppy with a problem.

Excessive drinking

Some pups love water and there is nothing alarming about that. However, if your puppy is suddenly drinking a lot more water than normal, without any obvious reason such as exercise or warm weather, there may be cause for concern.

Pale gums

Puppy gums should be a healthy pink (with the obvious exception of pups with black mouths). If you lift a lip and press on your pup's healthy gum it should become pale for a moment, then pink again a few seconds after you release. If your pup's gums are pale and you cannot see any difference in the color of his gums when pressed or released there may be a problem.

Limping

There are many reasons for a limp. But if there is no obvious cause, such as a broken toenail or injured paw pad, then it is best not to guess at the problem but to get a professional assessment from your veterinarian.

The most serious kind of limp is when a puppy holds his leg up and refuses to touch it to the ground. Sometimes, after a sudden stub or bump, a puppy will hold his paw up for a second or two. But usually he rapidly recovers and is walking on it again in short order. If he doesn't, then your puppy needs immediate medical care.

Collapse

Though rare, there are several reasons why a puppy might collapse. For example, if your puppy is a tiny toy breed he is more susceptible to hypoglycemia. These pups need to eat frequently to keep their blood sugar within normal range. If they go without food for too long their blood sugar falls and collapse may result.

A puppy may also collapse as a result of overheating, shock, or the ingestion of something toxic. Collapse as a result of overheating may occur if it is hot out and your puppy has overexerted himself or been without shade. Cooling him off is vital but needs to be done properly. He should be soaked in cool water, and brought to your veterinarian immediately. Collapse as a result of shock may occur after a severe trauma such as being hit by a car — again, immediate professional care is necessary. Collapse as a result of poisoning may occur if your pup has swallowed a toxic substance. If you suspect this has happened call your veterinarian or local poison control line for immediate advice. Regardless of the cause, professional care is necessary if your puppy collapses.

Vomiting

Most pups will vomit occasionally without anything being wrong. However, if your puppy vomits repeatedly in a short period, or has other symptoms such as listlessness, diarrhea, weakness, or a refusal to eat or drink, then it may be serious and you should consult your veterinarian immediately.

Most pups grow up happy and healthy without a single health emergency. If you're ever unsure of how to interpret your puppy's health don't hesitate to visit your veterinarian. Seeking prompt professional care is always a good choice.

The Big Bang

It's the Fourth of July - do you know where your pet is? This may not be the first question that comes to mind on this day of barbecues, picnics, family gatherings and fireworks.

Yet to the American cat and dog, the Fourth of July is a scary holiday - a day of sudden flashes and explosions. Pets don't realize this is a national holiday. Dogs and cats, who tend be sensitive to noise, become confused and frightened. Often their first instinct is to run and hide.

Independence Day is the number one holiday for pets to run away, according to John Keane, founder of Sherlock Bones, Inc., Tracer of Missing Pets. After the 4th, Keane receives a surge of phone calls from panicked owners saying their cat or dog is missing.

Many pet owners, unaware of how their pets will react, bring their dogs along to fireworks events or leave their cats outside for the evening. Some owners simply leave a window ajar, not realizing that terrified kitties might think this opening will allow them to escape the noise.

Here are some simple ways to prepare for the holiday, increase your pets' safety, drastically reduce their stress and lower their risk of running away.

Create a quiet place. Firecrackers, loud party voices and booming music can make pets anxious. Even well-socialized animals are likely to be pushed beyond their limits. Whether you go out or entertain at home, make sure your pets have a restful room or area to which they can retreat.

Don't take your pets to a fireworks display. Though you might prefer to have your pets' company, they'll be happier at home. Secure all potential escape hatches. If you can, leave them in a quiet, sheltered area. To reassure them, you may want to keep a television or radio playing at a normal volume while you're away.

Keep a harness and leash ready for each dog. If you must be outside with your dogs during fireworks, make sure each one is secure on a leash and harness. Frightened dogs commonly manage to slip out of their collars, and harnesses allow you to fully control your dog.

Don't leave your dogs outside unattended. Even tethered pups will struggle to get away if startled by noise. Dogs who aren't tethered may try to dig out of an enclosed yard. Generally, if dogs are afraid and stressed, they will look for a way out.

Be sure your pets wear current ID tags. Clear identification can be a pet's ticket back home. An ID tag means anyone who finds your pet can get in touch with you right away. Even an indoor cat should wear a breakaway collar with ID in case he slips out. If you don't have time to get a tag before the holiday, write your pet's name and your phone number in indelible ink on the collar itself for each of your pets.

Shoot a roll of photographs. It's a good idea to have up-to-date photos of your pets in case they ever get lost. Take a side shot of each pet and one looking directly at the camera. Hang up a gray sheet as a backdrop so your pets' images stand out clearly.

Keep all fireworks away from pets. People often don't realize how unpredictable and dangerous fireworks can be. Bottle rockets and firecrackers, in particular, can fly off in any direction. If one explodes near a pet, it could severely burn or blind him.

Hire a pet-sitter. If you go out for the day or evening, hire a pet-sitter to stop by or ask a friend who knows your pets to pay a visit. The loving touch and soothing tones of an animal-lover can calm your pets during the pyrotechnics. You can find caring and competent pet sitters in the PETCO Pet Yellow Pages.

Flea Treatment of Yards:

Flea eggs fall off in areas of the yard where pets spend time. Fleas can reproduce in areas that are warm and moist throughout the day, so if you are treating your yard for fleas, focus on those areas that stay moist and warm and around the doors of the house.

* There are chemical-based yard sprays made specifically for yard treatment, as well as companies that provide this service. Commercial treatments include Archer and FleaFix. You can obtain more information by doing a web search.

* If you plan to use a commercial product, first read the label to make sure it's safe for use around pets.

Some do-it-yourself approaches that can help you save money and avoid chemicals:

* Spread nematodes in affected areas of the yard. These worms help eliminate fleas by feeding on flea larva. They are non-toxic and are available from companies such as Interrupt. You can get them through some veterinarians. Details at http://www.vetinfo.com/dencyclopedia/defleacontrol.html .

* Ivory Liquid Soap approach: Rather than poisoning fleas, Ivory reportedly reduces and rids fleas, gnats and other bugs that have a complex trachea through suffocation. To use Ivory to spray your yard, use a garden sprayer attachment such as the one made by Ortho Sprayer. Fill it with Ivory and set the dilution dial to 2 tablespoons. Saturate the area, then let it dry before allowing your dog or anyone else walk on the treated ground. Using this method, people treat their yards every 4 to 6 weeks.

* Another home-made solution to repel insects from your yard (from Hints from Heloise): Make a solution of 1/2-cup of liquid dishwashing soap, 2 tablespoons of ammonia, and 5 to 7 cups of water. Use a bottle spray attachment with spray the solution to eliminate the insects.

* A good, fairly safe way to keep mosquitoes away is to spray your yard once a week with Simple Green, which is available at home and garden stores.

Finding the Perfect Dog - There is no such animal. So, stop looking. By Jon Katz

Americans love animals and know little about them. We are used to
convenience and short cuts; we respond to marketing. Meanwhile, the pet
industry needs to move a lot of animals, so it promotes the idea that
there's a Perfect Dog for everyone.

The Perfect Dog is an enticing fantasy pooch. It's the dog that instantly
learns to pee outdoors, never menaces or frightens children, plays gently
with other dogs, won't jump on the UPS guy, never rolls in gross things,
eats only the appropriate food at the right time, and never chews anything
not meant for him. This dog does not exist.

(The Perfect Dog is first cousin to the equally yearned-for Disney Dog.
That's the one who loves you alone, who will sacrifice his life to pull your
toddler back from the busy street, who will cross 1,000 miles of towering
snowdrifts to find you if you accidentally leave him behind in the Arctic. I
want such a dog, but I don't have one. Mine would make their way to the
nearest deli and stay there.)

The peddling of Perfect Dogs amounts to a multibillion dollar business in
the United States. You'll never see images of ugly dogs vomiting in the
living room or terrorizing the letter carrier on dog food commercials. Those
dogsâ?"the ones we wantâ?"are always adorable. Their happy owners are not
holding pooper scoopers.

Because people have such ill-informed and unrealistic expectations, dogs
often suffer when their true hungry, messy, and alien natures are revealed.
They get yelled at, irritated by studded chains and zapped by electronic
collars, tethered to trees, hidden away in basements and back yards, or
dumped at shelters and euthanized.

The most important time for you and your dog is the stretch you spend
considering whether, where, and how to get a dog and what sort of dog to
get. Unfortunately, that process lasts only a few minutes for most people.
Thus, much trouble for both species.

Most Americans acquire dogs impulsively and for dubious reasons: as a
Christmas gift for the kids. Because they saw one in a movie. To match the
new living-room furniture. Because they moved to the suburbs and see a dog
as part of the package. Because they couldn't resist that wide-eyed puppy in
the mall pet store or the poster published by the local shelter.

Even the scant time it will take to read and mull over the following
questions (and some answers) might improve your chances of finding the right
dog.

1. Why do I want a dog?
Researchers studying human-animal attachments find we have complex personal
motives for wanting a dog (or cat) and for choosing a particular one at a
given time. It's important to understand some of those impulses, even if it
means picking at psychic scabs. Are you lonely? Sick of people? Unhappy at
work? Re-enacting some familial drama? Drawn to the aesthetics of a
beautiful purebred? Compelled by the idea of rescuing, but not necessarily
training, a dog? Understanding your own motivation doesn't mean getting a
dog is wrong, but it may help you make a better choice of animalâ?"or decide
that what you really need doesn't come on four legs.

2. How can I get a well-behaved dog?
You can't. You can only create one. Dogs don't come that way. It's natural
canine behavior to chew on all sorts of things, roll in other animals'
droppings, hump and fight other dogs, menace anything that invades the home.
All these behaviors can be curbed, but that takes a lot of work. Trainers
say it requires nearly 2,000 repetitions of a behavior for a dog to
completely absorb it.

3. Does it matter what kind of dog I get?
There is a kind of canine communism that suggests all dogs are equal and,
potentially, wonderfully alike. I don't think so. It is both foolish and
irresponsible to know nothing about the characteristics of the animal that
you, your family, and your neighbors will have to live with for years. Last
year, more than 400,000 kids were bitten badly enough by dogs to require a
hospital visit. Don't add to the number.

4. Is it wrong to buy a purebred when so many dogs face confinement and
death in shelters?
It's about as wrong as having a baby when millions of poor children suffer.
Getting the right dog involves not only moral but practical considerations.
Acquiring a rescue or shelter dog can be incredibly rewarding, but when you
adopt one, you may also acquire behavioral issues caused by previous
mistreatment. You may need to be prepared for even more arduous training
than usual. Raising a dog acquired from a good and reputable breeder, who
understands the dog's temperament and the human's circumstances and can
match the two, is much easier. Working with a Lab, standard poodle, golden
retriever, or German shepherdâ?"breeds that have worked with humans for
centuries and whose behavioral traits are well knownâ?"may mean fewer
surprises.

5. How should I get a dog?
There's no one way. Avoid the puppy millsâ?"unscrupulous breeders mass-breed
and in-breed dogs and sell them to pet stores. Go to a shelter, rescue
group, or experienced breeder (get some references). Whoever provides the
dog should be skeptical. A good breeder or experienced rescue agency wants
you to prove that you'll be a capable caretaker. The interrogation and
screening can be annoying, but it's also a sign that you're on the right
track. A breeder ought to know if you work long hours away from home, have a
fenced yard, have kids or other animals, or if you have access to parks. Why
are there all those mastiffs, Rottweilers, and border collies in Manhattan?
It's what happens when unscrupulous breeders meet thoughtless customers.

6. Is it a mistake to buy a dog for your child?
Only if you are unrealistic enough to believe your kid's promises that of
course she'll take care of the new puppy. Kids have short attention spans.
They'll coo over the puppy, but in a few months it will be a dog. And who
will be walking it at 6 a.m. on a winter morning? Don't surprise your kids
with a puppyâ?"they really might prefer a new computer.

Some romantics see the match between a human and dog as kismet; If they're
"right" for one another, or destined to be together, they'll fall in love at
first sight. But most puppies are cute. And few humans like to accept the
idea that the affectionate puppy is as drawn by the food he smells on your
hands as by some mysterious ethereal connection. Be cautious. Go slow. Think
about it.

Equine influenza jumps species barrier - Associated Press

Gainesville, Fla. — Eight Jacksonville racing greyhounds were killed by an equine influenza virus that jumped the species barrier from horses to dogs, University of Florida researchers announced Thursday. The researchers said their findings involve only the Jacksonville dogs, but they will investigate possible connections to similar disease outbreaks that have affected racing dogs in Florida and elsewhere in recent years. The deaths occurred in January. “I want to stress that our team's findings are preliminary and confined to the dogs affected by the outbreak at one Florida track, an outbreak that occurred three months ago and was contained through a voluntary statewide quarantine, which is no longer in effect,” said Cynda Crawford, a UF veterinary immunologist.

Her findings are the result of a team effort involving virologists from Cornell University's College of Veterinary Medicine in Ithaca, N.Y., and the U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention in Atlanta.“There is absolutely no evidence to suggest that these findings extend beyond the group of dogs affected during that period of time, or that it poses any significant threat to people or their pets,” Dr. Crawford said. She said blood samples were collected from two additional dog populations in Florida and all tested negative for equine influenza virus. Equine influenza is in the same group of viruses that cause flu in people.

Horses infected with the virus usually recover in two to three weeks. When Dr. Crawford learned of an outbreak in 24 dogs in January, she visited the Jacksonville track. The dogs were affected with symptoms that included coughs and fevers. Sixteen dogs recovered. She collected blood and nasal fluid samples from 35 dogs. Five of the dogs that died underwent post-mortem examinations at UF. She sent samples for analysis to Ed Dubovi, director of the virology section at Cornell's Animal Health Diagnostic Lab, who was able to isolate the virus. Using genetic sequencing, the CDC concluded the virus found in the dog samples resembled a strain of equine influenza that appeared in horses in Wisconsin last year.

Researchers said they have no idea how the greyhounds could have been exposed
to the equine influenza virus.

Doggy Dangers and How YOU Can Protect Your Pooch

When Bass, a Black Labrador Retriever, started choking on a toy ball, his owners Melodie Harris and Timothy Bedford didn't know the emergency procedures needed to save his life. So, they did the only thing they knew how -- they called 911.

Patti Higgins, a dispatcher with the Brewster, Mass., Police Department, took the call and began talking Harris and Bedford through the necessary first aid procedures. With Harris on the phone, Higgins described how to try and dislodge the ball using the Heimlich maneuver. Bass' owners tried the Heimlich maneuver several times, but for some reason it wasn't working on him - and then suddenly, Bass stopped breathing. In a desperate attempt to save his dog, Bedford reached into Bass' mouth, grabbed the ball and pulled it out -- but Bass still didn't resume breathing. Harris immediately attempted mouth-to-mouth breathing on Bass, but because of the dog's large size and the shape of his mouth, the human technique of artificial breathing wasn't working. To revive Bass, Higgins, who is familiar with pet CPR, instructed Harris and Bedford how to perform artificial breathing for pets, which requires a mouth-to-nose breathing technique.

Within a few seconds, Higgins could hear panting over the phone line -- Bass was breathing again. "It was pretty cool," Higgins explained, adding that this was the first dog she's helped save in her nine years on the job. "I don't remember where I picked up pet CPR," Higgins said. But Bass and his owners are certainly glad that she did.

What to Do When a Canine Chokes

If your dog begins choking, try dislodging the obstruction with a simple pat on the back.
If that doesn't work, you can try snagging the object with your finger and removing it from the dog's mouth.
If your dog is still choking, you can try the Heimlich maneuver, a life-saving procedure in which the rescuer presses up on the abdomen in order to force air upward and dislodge the foreign object from the airway.
Dog CPR involves a different form of resuscitation: instead of mouth-to-mouth, a human must hold a dog's mouth shut and breath into its nose.
The size of your dog should determine the size of your breaths. A small dog will have smaller lungs, and too strong a breath forced into his lungs might actually cause him harm.

Beware of Poisonous Substances

Although chocolate is a sweet treat for humans, for a dog it can be deadly.

The holidays are an especially dangerous time for pets, particularly Christmas, Easter, and Halloween, when chocolate and other treats are abundant around the house.

Your dog can be poisoned in places beyond the kitchen, and an encounter of the amphibious kind can make your dog's play time in the yard a dangerous experience. Dogs can be poisoned by even common toads, although with quick first aid, they usually only suffer mouth irritation. The Bufo toad, on the other hand, secretes a white poison through its skin that is deadly when it comes in contact with a dog's mouth. The poison is rapidly absorbed through the mucous membranes, and death is usually quick.

Bufo toads are native to Texas, California, Hawaii, and Florida, and dog owners who live in these areas should try to prevent toad poisoning by searching the yard before letting their dogs outside. If your dog appears to have been poisoned while outside, try to detect the source of the problem and call your veterinarian immediately. Taking quick action and knowing what to do before an emergency arises are the best ways to help your pet when he's in danger.

The National Animal Poison Control Center (1-888-4ANIHELP) has toxicology experts available 24 hours a day to help owners whose pets have been poisoned.

Pet CPR - For Your Pooch's Sake

Your dog will truly owe you his life if you know how to rescue him when he's stopped breathing. Whether he's choking on a toy or drowning in your pool, your quick action and familiarity with first aid are critical to saving your pooch from danger.

Keeping Your Dog Out of Trouble

The trouble that dogs can get themselves into is endless, says veterinarian Dan Otero, DVM, owner of an animal emergency clinic in Brandon, Fla. Otero believes preventing accidents all comes down to common sense. Pet owners should lock up any medication, remove toxic plants and other substances from their pet's reach, put their pet on a leash to avoid a car accident, and never leave their dog alone in a parked car, to name a only few of the simple preventive measures. Even small children, who may not know they're hurting an animal, should never be left unattended with a pet.

"Most accidents are preventable," Otero says. The good news is that if your dog is involved in an accident, there is usually time to get him to the veterinary hospital for treatment, which is the best thing you can do in the event of an emergency. For more serious injuries and accidents, knowing first aid can help save your dog's life.

Bark to the Beach

Most dogs love to romp in the sun and surf. Here's how to have a safe and fun-filled day at the beach together.

If you're a dog owner, you've probably imagined this scenario or one similar. You and your pooch are at the beach. You're tanned and toned, throwing a Frisbee. Your agile companion catches each toss with a gymnastic flair.

I know sometimes in my more selfish moments, I've wished my two dogs were sportier. Cody, a black and tan hound, couldn't catch a Frisbee to save her life. Tonka, a rottweiler-mastiff mix, will at least run after the Frisbee and pick it up, but he never brings it back.

In order to come anywhere close to my beach fantasy, I rely on my sister's dog Casey, a Chesapeake Bay retriever. Taking Casey to the beach is like going to your high school prom with Fred Astaire. Casey has enough ability for both of us.

Casey, as she runs and swims, is an impressive sight. Her muscles become exceptionally defined and she seems to gallop with the speed, power and focus of a racehorse. I often have to force Casey to sit out a few rounds if I notice her panting heavily or laboring a little as she paddles back to shore.

Eventually she lies down for a nap with a distinct pout on her face. I usually feel bad disappointing her, but she's always raring to go later in the day. If you and your dog are planning a trip to the beach this summer, here are a few lessons Casey and I have learned along the way.

First and foremost, make sure the beach is dog friendly. If you can't find its pet policy using the Internet, try calling the information number for your local department of parks and recreation.

Never force your dog into the water to teach him to swim. If the water makes him nervous, try gently coaxing him in using a treat or toy as a lure.

Consider treating your dog's nose and ears with sunscreen, especially if he has a fair coat and pink skin, as dogs with these features tend to burn easily. Ask your veterinarian before using sunscreen on your pet.

Don't let your dog overexert himself. Running on sand and swimming in the ocean exhausts dogs much more quickly than a typical walk in the park.

Always have fresh water and a shady resting place available.

Ask the lifeguard about the day's conditions. Is the tide especially strong? Are there jellyfish or other potential hazards your dog might encounter?

As you're packing up to head home, examine the pads of your dog's feet for cuts or abrasions.

You'll also want to pack some waste pick-up bags and extra towels for drying your dog. If you've brought along your own cooler of goodies, you can use some of the ice to keep the water in his bowl nice and cold.

Keep your dog safe in surf and on shore. And whether he's an all-star acrobat or a clown who trips over his own feet, he'll steal the show when you hit the beach.

Discover Why Timing is Everything

When training your dog, rewarding him immediately for responding to a cue is critical. That's because your dog learns by trying out new behaviors and seeing what happens as a consequence. If you want your dog to react to your commands, he needs to be able to associate a reinforcement (praise or food) with a particular behavior. Follow his action with a good consequence right away, and he'll want to repeat it again and again.

For example, if you want your dog to sit, he should be given a treat the instant his bottom hits the ground. If you wait until he stands up again, the learning will be lost and he will think he is getting rewarded for standing.

Positive reinforcement refresher

Although there are many training methods, the most satisfying for both you and your dog are methods based on positive reinforcement. This means that you give rewards for correct actions only. Avoid using the word "no" during your training sessions. Use treats and praise to encourage the "right" behaviors, and ignore inappropriate behavior; a dog that hasn't learned what you want him to do isn't misbehaving - he just hasn't caught on just yet.

Clicker training

If your dog is having difficulty associating your command with his behavior, you may want to give clicker training a try.

Clicker training uses the principle of positive reinforcement. A "clicker" is a small plastic box containing a strip of metal that makes a clicking sound when pressed. The vital first step to clicker training is finding the dog's motivation. For most dogs, this means either a tasty snack or play. The next step is to associate a positive meaning to the click, telling the dog, "Yes, this is right, you have done the right thing, and so you'll get a reward." The first stage is therefore to associate the sound of the click with something positive. You need to deliver this information within seconds, or your dog will miss the point of the exercise.

If you'd like to learn more about clicker training, Read the next post...
Consistency

Remember, there are many methods of positive reinforcement you can use to train your dog, and clicker training is just one. Whichever you choose, try and stick with it. Whether your dog is a fast learner or needs some extra training sessions to learn, once he does, he generally won't forget what you've taught him.

That means you should try to be as consistent as possible with the type and tone of words you use for commands, and most importantly, always reward or praise him as soon as he performs the correct behavior.

Does your routine change when your puppy is an adolescent?

Yes. Now that your puppy has reached his adolescent years your routine may begin to change. It won’t return to your pre-puppy days, but because your puppy is nearing adulthood you will be able to spend more time away from your home, with your puppy and without. You also may be changing how you care for your puppy because puppies have special needs at different stages of their lives.

Leaving puppy for longer periods of time

As your puppy nears adulthood he will be better able to stay home alone for short periods, especially if you have spent time training him. When your puppy was very young he demanded a lot of your attention. As an adolescent he will still need attention but because of the time you spent training him, and puppy-proofing your house, you should be able to leave him alone for longer periods. It helps to make this a gradual change for your puppy. It’s also important to give your puppy a lot of attention in the morning and in the evening – during his natural high-energy cycles. A short walk may be sufficient for some breeds but not enough for the more active breeds. And remember, animals need more sleep than humans. So time alone during the day gives your puppy a chance for much needed rest. You should also be able to take your puppy with you to more places because at this stage he should know basic obedience commands. If not, don’t worry. It’s never too late to begin training, although it’s best to start training at an early age.

Doggy daycare and dog sitters/walkers are options (although price should be considered) if you are away a full day or not comfortable leaving your puppy alone.

Car travel

When your puppy nears adult size it may be tempting to let him roam free in the car as opposed to locked safely in a transport crate. This isn’t a good idea – no matter how large the dog. It is recommended that you use a crate for your puppy when traveling with him. Collapsible crates are available for easy storage in the trunk when not in use.

Grooming

During the adolescent stage you may find that you’re sweeping up a lot more of your puppy’s hair from around your home. At 8 to 12 months of age puppies (depending on the breed) experience a heightened period of shedding as they lose the fuzzy coat of their puppy-hood for a coat that is typical to their breed.

Time to hike

At this age your puppy is ready for new activities. If you’re a hiker, this is a good time to introduce him to the sport, as long as you remember that he is a puppy and should not be overexerted. Just make sure that you take along your dog’s first-aid kit and have the phone number of a local veterinarian on hand. Some parks don’t allow dogs so it’s also a good idea to make sure dogs are welcome where you are planning to hike. Always keep your puppy leashed.

Battle of the bulge

Some puppies tend to get a little chubby as they near their first birthday. So it’s up to you to exercise him and ensure that his diet is healthy. Speak to your veterinarian if you have any questions about the proper weight for your puppy.

Chocolate toxicity

Chocolate contains a xanthine compound, theobromine, that is toxic in sufficient quantities. Examples of other xanthine compounds are caffeine and theophylline. The toxicity from all of these compounds is similar.

It takes a fairly large amount of chocolate to cause problems. In "The Handbook of Small Animal Practice" by Dr. Rhea Morgan, the following data is given:

The toxic dose of theobromine is about 100 to 150mg/kg

Milk chocolate contains 6mg of theobromine per ounce. Semi-sweet chocolate contains about 22mg/oz. and baking chocolate about 35 to 45mg/oz.

From this it is pretty easy to see that milk chocolate poses only a minor threat while the other forms of chocolate can be a bigger problem.

Xanthines affect primarily the central nervous system, the cardiovascular system and peripheral nerves. There is a diuretic effect as well. So the sign seen with toxicity include hyperexitablility, hyper irritability, increased heart rate, restlessness, increased urination, vomiting and muscular tremors or tenseness. Under some circumstances these signs can lead to secondary problems like hyperthermia. In severe cases, seizures or cardiac arrest can occur. Death can result from severe intoxication.

There is no specific antidote for this poisoning. Inducing vomiting can help if the ingestion is known and has occurred within one to two hours. Administration of activated charcoal may inhibit absorption of the toxin from the digestive tract. It may be necessary to use medications to control the effects of the poisoning, especially seizure control medications, oxygen therapy, intravenous fluids, and medications to control the effects on the heart.

With ingestion of milk chocolate, diarrhea is a common secondary problem. This may require therapy and often occurs 12 to 24 hours after eating the chocolate.

If you suspect chocolate poisoning and your dog or cat is showing clinical signs of the problem, it is important to contact your vet.

Camping With Canines - by Aishe Berger, Petopia Assistant Editor

Planning a few days of hiking and sleeping under the stars with your dog? Here’s how to make sure you’re both ready.

Years ago on a backpacking trip with my first dog, a shepherd-collie mix named Zasu, I wandered away from my campsite in search of kindling. Neophyte outdoorswoman that I was, I promptly lost my way.

There I stood, 7,000 feet up in the Sierra Nevada, unable to read a compass, uncertain of the difference between a pile of rocks and a trail marker, with evening rapidly approaching. For a few anxious moments I thought about how Zasu and I would: a) be devoured by bears, b) starve to death, or c) die of thirst.

As I lamented that the food in Zasu’s backpack was far from the lamb and rice I had in mind for dinner, I noticed her sniffing the air and cocking her head curiously. Vaguely recalling "Lassie" episodes from my youth, I figured I had nothing to lose but the experience of tasting dry dog kibble. I turned to Zasu and commanded, "Home, girl!"

She promptly pointed her nose westward (or what I imagined was westward) and trotted off through the woods. I stumbled after her, and a few minutes later we were back at our campsite, where my friend Melina was heating up a freeze-dried chicken dish.

I was naive in my early days of backpacking, but the more trips Zasu and I took, the more seasoned we became. Here are some things I wish we’d known from the beginning.

Preparations

Most dogs aren’t used to the rigors of backcountry trekking. In the weeks leading up to a long trip, condition your pooch by going on shorter hikes, which will build up her stamina and toughen the pads of her paws.
Consider your dog’s health and breed when planning a trip. Toy breeds and older dogs are generally not suited for backpacking – unless they ride in the backpack.
Make sure your dog is current on her license, vaccinations, and other medical needs, including heartworm pills and flea and tick treatment.

Important Accoutrements

Dog pack. If your dog is fully grown and in good health, she can carry between 10 and 25 percent of her body weight. Zasu carried her food and water, her portable dish, and our guidebooks. I double-bagged everything in case she ran through creeks and streams (which she did at every opportunity). Note: Breeds prone to back problems or dysplasia shouldn’t carry packs.
First-aid kit. This essential should include coated aspirin, antibiotic ointment, antihistamines, a snakebite kit (if the area has poisonous snakes), and tweezers, which are great for pulling out foxtails and those dreaded ticks.
Leashes. Take two; it’s always good to have a backup. Even on a trail that allows dogs to run loose, you may find reason to keep yours leashed, especially if some fascinating wildlife is nearby.
Extra food and water. Always factor in an extra two days’ worth of dog food. If you aren’t sure whether there will be watering holes along the trail, pack an extra two liters of water as well. A collapsible bowl is a great space-saver and light enough for your dog to carry in her pack.

Critters and Other Hazards

Skunks. If you and your dog hike and camp often, it’s likely that your dog will get skunked at some point. You probably won’t want to hang out with her afterward, so head directly to the nearest grocery store for tomato juice and give her a bath.
Overheating and dehydration. I always made sure Zasu drank a lot of water and kept an eye out for signs of heatstroke, such as excessive panting and staring. If you’re hiking near water and your dog seems hot, take her for a swim.
Coyotes, bears, and snakes. Outside of a leash and your dog’s immediate response to vocal commands, there isn’t much you can do to guarantee your dog never encounters a wild animal. Be alert, and keep your dog close by.
Giardia. This parasite is all too common in lakes and rivers. It’s dangerous for humans and dogs, though some dogs have a higher immunity than others. I’m lucky that Zasu was never exposed to it, but now I always filter my dog’s water just to be safe.

A Note on Good Canine Manners
A wilderness adventure with your dog is a wonderful idea, yet it’s more crucial than ever that she will listen to you and respond at a moment’s notice.

If you’re unsure of her outdoor behavior, I recommend taking a day trip together first to test it out. How protective or aggressive is she when other hikers appear? Always have a leash ready, and remember to be respectful of other campers and their attitudes toward dogs.

Once you’re confident that your dog is healthy, strong, and responsive to your commands, you are set to leave civilization behind. Don’t forget your camera for capturing those once-in-a-lifetime moments – and be sure to brush up on your "Lassie" reruns for those occasions you'd rather forget.

Research Finds Dogs Understand Language - By RANDOLPH E. SCHMID, AP

(June 10) - As many a dog owner will attest, our furry friends are listening. Now, for the doubters, there is scientific proof they understand much of what they hear.

German researchers have found a border collie named Rico who understands more than 200 words and can learn new ones as quickly as many children.

Patti Strand, an American Kennel Club board member, called the report "good news for those of us who talk to our dogs."

"Like parents of toddlers, we learned long ago the importance of spelling key words like bath, pill or vet when speaking in front of our dogs," Strand said. "Thanks to the researchers who've proven that people who talk to their dogs are cutting-edge communicators, not just a bunch of eccentrics."

The researchers found that Rico knows the names of dozens of play toys and can find the one called for by his owner. That is a vocabulary size about the same as apes, dolphins and parrots trained to understand words, the researchers say.

Rico can even take the next step, figuring out what a new word means.

The researchers put several known toys in a room along with one that Rico had not seen before. From a different room, Rico's owner asked him to fetch a toy, using a name for the toy the dog had never heard.

The border collie, a breed known primarily for its herding ability, was able to go to the room with the toys and, seven times out of 10, bring back the one he had not seen before. The dog seemingly understood that because he knew the names of all the other toys, the new one must be the one with the unfamiliar name.

"Apparently he was able to link the novel word to the novel item based on exclusion learning, either because he knew that the familiar items already had names or because they were not novel," said the researchers, led by Julia Fischer of the Max Planck Institute for Evolutionary Anthropology in Leipzig.

A month later, he still remembered the name of that new toy three out of six times, even without having seen it since that first test. That is a rate the scientists said was equivalent to that of a 3-year-old.

Rico's learning ability may indicate that some parts of speech comprehension developed separately from human speech, the scientists said.

"You don't have to be able to talk to understand a lot," Fischer said. The team noted that dogs have evolved with humans and have been selected for their ability to respond to the communications of people.

Katrina Kelner, Science's deputy editor for life sciences, said "such fast, one-trial learning in dogs is remarkable. This ability suggests that the brain structures that support this kind of learning are not unique to humans and may have formed the evolutionary basis of some of the advanced language abilities of humans."

Perhaps, although Paul Bloom of Yale University urges caution.

"Children can understand words used in a range of contexts. Rico's understanding is manifested in his fetching behavior," Bloom writes in a commentary, also in Science.

Bloom calls for further experiments to answer several questions: Can Rico learn a word for something other than a small object to be fetched? Can he display knowledge of a word in some way other than fetching? Can he follow an instruction not to fetch something?

Fischer and her colleagues are still working with Rico to see if he can understand requests to put toys in boxes or to bring them to certain people. Rico was born in December 1994 and lives with his owners. He was tested at home.

Behavior problem or health problem? - by Terri O'Connor

In adolescence your well-behaved puppy may begin to challenge authority, or show aggression. However, it’s risky to assume that any new behavior during this time is a result of adolescence. What if your puppy’s new behavior is the result of a health problem? Because your puppy can’t tell you why he is behaving the way he is it’s up to you to find out. If you assume that any new behavior is a result of adolescence there is the possibility that a health problem will not be diagnosed, and your puppy will continue to suffer. For example, if your adolescent puppy has started reacting aggressively when someone touches his stomach he may have a health problem – it’s important not to assume his aggressiveness is just a stage he is going through.

Visit your veterinarian

A visit to your veterinarian is important. Your veterinarian can diagnose any health problems, or rule out a medical problem. Don’t try and diagnose your puppy yourself. If you decide that the reason your puppy is chewing your furniture is because he is an adolescent going through a stage where he ignores your commands, including the one to stop chewing, you may be right. But it’s also possible that your puppy’s chewing behavior is due to nutritional deficiencies. Your veterinarian can rule out any health problems, or catch them early.

Is your puppy getting enough exercise?

If your puppy is healthy, make sure he is getting enough exercise – mentally and physically. When playing games with your puppy, vary the routine a bit so his mind is stimulated. There are many ways to do this. If you are playing with your puppy you may want to change the game by adding in commands like “sit” every so often. Adequate physical exercise is also very important. Probably the number one reason for behavior problems is puppies that aren’t getting enough exercise. A puppy that is getting the proper exercise may be too tired to get into mischief. For example, if your puppy is not getting the physical exercise he needs he may communicate this by digging up your garden. He may be digging to use up energy that hasn’t been given a healthy outlet through walks and games. Walking is the best exercise for your puppy. Remember that your puppy is still developing. Don’t force him to do exercise, especially on pavement, which might injure his developing bones. Jogging and bicycling are too tough on your puppy until he is through adolescence. Each puppy is different, so it’s impossible to give you the age your puppy will be when his adolescent period is over. Two years old is a rough estimate, but again, because every puppy is different, it’s best to talk to your veterinarian.

Bursts of energy - by Terri O'Connor

Once or twice a day, most puppies kick up their heels and go a little gleefully wild. One label for this extra energy burst is a FRAP, Frenetic Random Activity Period. This is especially true of older puppies who will soon be leaving puppyhood behind.

With puppies, FRAPs most often happen in the early morning and early evening. Racing around the house, rolling on the rugs and careening off of furniture are all normal parts of the canine FRAP. When you can, sit back and enjoy the show. FRAPs will be gone soon enough and when this happens you'll know that the end of puppyhood is nearing.

You may be able to see a FRAP coming. You may see a glint in your puppy's eye or maybe he'll play bow with his chest on the floor and his tail in the air. Maybe he'll bark or bounce but then … he's off! Spinning in circles, racing up and down the hall, around or over the furniture, barking at you, pouncing at toys before he suddenly changes his mind and races off again. He's a veritable whirlwind of life and few things in life are as full of pure happiness as a good puppy FRAP.

How to deal with FRAP

Sometimes a good FRAP is just plain fun, but other times you need to tone them down a bit for the sake of your house or puppy's safety. A simple solution is letting your puppy run around inside a fenced yard. Opening the door is usually all that is required to get him outside but you can attract his attention with a favorite toy and toss it outside if he needs to be coaxed.

If you don't have a fenced backyard, close off the rooms inside your home you want your puppy to stay out of and let him rip. It's a good idea to keep large breed pups off of slippery surfaces as sliding around can hurt your puppy. Be especially aware of anything that could topple if bumped hard. The good news is that FRAPs rarely last more than a few minutes.

If the timing is just plain wrong for you, there is nothing wrong with taking a good chew toy and quietly crating your puppy for a few minutes. Or, if he'll focus, you can get out some treats and harness this energy into some obedience practice.

What you want to avoid is supporting this behavior. Chasing him around or laughing at his antics (pups understand laughter well) encourages more of this behavior. Trying to calm him down with stroking usually leads to squirming and mouthing because of his high excitement level, so skip that as well.

Remember, most puppies experience FRAPs at some point or other. Try to sit back and enjoy your puppy's show during this time – it won't last forever and when FRAPs end it's likely puppyhood is ending too.

Body Language

Dogs communicate by giving certain signals. Learn how to interpret what these mean.

One of the reasons dogs make such good pets is the remarkable way they can communicate with humans. Pet dogs see us as an extension of their own canine family, and are very quick to interpret our own moods and intentions. An understanding of how dogs communicate with other dogs will help the observant owner to correctly figure out the message their pet is trying to give.

Dogs can communicate with other dogs through a series of signals, including a variety of facial expressions, body postures, noises and scents. Your dog will use his mouth, eyes, ears and even his tail to express his emotions. By reading the combination of body signals, you should be able to work out who is top dog in any confrontation or situation.

A dog who's feeling brave or aggressive will try to give the impression of being a larger, more powerful animal. He will stand tall with his ears and tail erect, thrust his chest forward and may raise the hairs around his neck and along his back (his hackles). He may also wave his tail slowly and growl.

A submissive dog, on the other hand, will try to appear small and puppy-like - adult dogs will chastise puppies, but they don't attack them. His approach to a more dominant individual is likely to be from the side, crouching near to the ground with the tail held low and wagging enthusiastically. He may also try to lick the hands or paws and face of the dominant dog or person, and if this isn't appeasing enough, he might then roll onto his back to expose his stomach. In this position, some dogs will involuntarily pass a small amount of urine.

One pattern of behavior that's characteristic of dogs and familiar to almost everyone is tail wagging. Most people would recognize that loose, free tail wagging indicates pleasure and a general friendliness. Exaggerated tail wagging, which extends to the entire rump, is seen in subordinate dogs - as well as dogs with very short tails.

The tail, however, is also an indicator of other emotions. A tail waved slowly and stiffly, in line with the back, expresses anger. Clamped low over the dog's hindquarters, it's a sign that the dog is afraid. Anxious or nervous dogs may stiffly wag their drooping tails as a sign of appeasement.

The normal tail carriage of the dog has been modified through breeding and docking. Some breeds - such as the Whippet and the Italian Greyhound - naturally carry their tail in the clamped-down position, but in general, a tail held at higher than 45 degrees to the spine expresses interest and alertness.

The facial expressions of your dog will tell you a lot about his mood - whether he's anxious or excited, frightened or playful or any one of a vast range of emotions he may express. His ears prick up when he's alert or listening intently, but are held back or flattened onto the head when expressing pleasure, submission or fear. To read his mood correctly, you must watch for other body signals at the same time.

The narrowing or half-closure of the dog’s eyes indicates either pleasure or submission, but when his eyes are wide open, he intends to be aggressive.

In the wild, the pack leader can maintain control simply by staring at a subordinate dog. The two animals will continue to stare at each other until one challenges the other, or until one lowers his head and turns away. If the staring continues after the submissive dog has looked away, he will feel confused and may bite out of fear. If eye contact is not broken, the dominant dog will reinforce his threat by snarling, growling or even attacking.

You should not try to outstare your dog if he has aggressive or nervous tendencies - this could provoke an attack. Nevertheless, regular, gentle eye contact reassures the dog and reinforces your relationship.

Submissive dogs and those of certain breeds, notably Labradors, may appear to be 'smiling' when they open their mouth to show the teeth in a lop-sided grin of friendliness. In the snarl of aggression, however, both lips are drawn right back to expose most of the teeth, and may be accompanied by a growl.

A dog will indicate his desire to play, raising a front paw, or by performing the play bow, which is often accompanied by barking to attract attention. Other gestures include offering a play object or bounding up to another dog to invite chase.

received from Terri O'Connor of My Toy Bulldogs

Partial/ Focal Seizures, Paroxysmal Dyskinesia, Head Tremors In the Bulldog?? By Kathy Jacobsen

The topic of this article, very simply put is: head tremors, fly biting and circling behaviors in our beloved Bullies. Looking at the title, however, it becomes painfully apparent that these neurologic anomalies that we are seeing in the bulldog today fall into the "grey" area of veterinary and human neurologic disorders.

What qualifies me to discuss such a topic, you might ask? My answer to you would be good old experience. I have been in bulldogs for close to 16+ years, had 7 litters and of those 7 litters have had 5 dogs/bitches who have exhibited 1 or more of these behaviors.

I plan on reviewing the scientific findings from articles I have pulled from the internet and then share my experience, including what I did to minimize the behaviors along with how well it worked on each dog.

Let's start with some general definitions taken directly from the literature:

1.. Epilepsy: "a chronic condition characterized by recurrent seizures. It is a disorder of the brain where abnormal electrical activity triggers further uncoordinated nerve transmission. This uncoordinated and haphazard nerve tissue activity scrambles messages to the muscles or your dog's body and the coordinated use of muscles is then inhibited."   The characteristic seizure activity seen in epilepsy are classed as

2.. Seizures: involuntary contraction of muscles, caused by an electrical storm in the brain that can be everywhere at once and can be seen on EEG.   Partial seizure where the abnormal electrical impulses begin in a small area of the brain and may or may not migrate to other areas of the brain.
    1.. Focal/Partial seizures
      a.. Simple focal seizures (minor motor or focal motor seizures) when consciousness is preserved. The area of the brain that is affected is the area that controls movement. Usually the face is affected, resulting in twitching or blinking. This is usually limited to one side of the face. The dog is usually alert and aware of it's surroundings
      b.. Complex focal seizures when consciousness is altered- ie the pet is staring off into the distance but you cannot gain their attention. This seizure will originate in the area of the brain that controls behavior and is sometimes called a psychomotor seizure. The dogs consciousness will be altered and he may exhibit bizarre behavior such as unprovoked aggression or extreme irrational fear. He may run uncontrollably, engage in senseless, repetitive behavior or have fly-snapping episodes where he appears to be biting at imaginary flies around his head.
    2.. Grand Mal (tonic-clonic) seizures - which begins with an involuntary contraction of all skeletal muscles and loss of consciousness.
3.. Paroxysmal Dyskinesia is a movement disorder. There are brief attacks of the symptoms with the dog appearing perfectly normal between the episodes, the same way there are discrete attacks of seizures in epilepsy. Dyskinesia refers to an abnormal, involuntary movement or posture. Movement disorders usually originate from the deeper areas(the basal nuclei) of the brain. These areas are responsible for translating the commands from higher brain areas (e.g get the ball) into movements (e.g. stand up, begin trotting, etc).   The distinction in the human between seizure activity and dyskinesias is based on looking for abnormal electrical activity on the surface of the brain with an EEG. By definition, seizures have abnormal EEG activity, while paroxysmal dyskinesias do not. People with paroxysmal dyskineasis often experience a decrease in episodes as they age while epileptic people and dogs will worsen with age.

Let's talk now about Head Tremors in the Bulldog.

In my experience, head tremor activity in the Bulldog usually starts around the age of 2 years old.   The motion you will see will almost always be a fast side to side rocking motion (ear to shoulder - ear to shoulder) occurring in rapid succession. Occasionally I have seen an up and down motion (like they are shaking their heads to say yes) but for the most part it is the same fast rocking. The way it was defined to me was that the neuron cluster that controls a certain motor function, in this case head movement, begins to fire continuously. The reason for this rapid fire is truly unknown.

I have not experienced any drooling or other body part involvement. It has always been isolated to the head. When you call the dogs name they can stop the bobbing motion for a few seconds and will look at you, then it will kick in again. They can move their heads and watch you move from place to place, they can even walk around etc.

Scenario I:        The bully will be sleeping very soundly and all of a sudden the head will start rocking - usually from side to side very quickly- occasionally you might experience one bobbing up and down. This sudden head motion will cause the bully to awaken suddenly. An episode will last from 15 to 30 seconds, sometimes longer. It may stop on its own and then as the dog lays down to go back to sleep the head tremor will reoccur.

Scenario II:       A bitch will be pre-season or just come into season. Males head is bobbing for all it is worth.

Scenario III:     A bitch is post whelp, in the milk let down phase of lactation, and trying to nurse a litter of hungry pups. In this case the bitch has had surgical trauma as the result of a C section, is in pain, is not eating and is trying to make milk. This, in my opinion is different than the head tremors described in Scenario I and II.

When you see this What Do You Do?

The first time we experienced this phenomena was a scenario III post whelp- I panicked. I grabbed the puppies off the bitch and almost caused one to aspirate.   When I gained a little composure I called a breeder friend of mine and explained what I was seeing. She told me that it was not uncommon and I should try to get some sugar, honey, Karo syrup into her. The thought is that the blood sugar had experienced a sharp drop at that point in time thus stimulating this type of a response. We gave the girl the Karo and low and behold the tremors stopped within a couple of seconds.

The next time we witnessed this behavior - was a little different. The bitch was not post whelp. However, she was 3 days prior to coming into season.   She had been sleeping on the couch. We gave her honey. It stopped. Started up 15 minutes later we repeated the karo. Same result. We gave her frozen yogurt, same result. This went on for almost 24 hours with the length of time between episodes varying from 10-15 minutes to as long as a half hour. Needless to say we packed her up and went off to the vet who said: this is not unusual in this breed. Normally we don't do anything. Epilepsy meds have proven to be ineffective for the most part, phenobarb has too many side effects. The Veterinarian stated that they suspect it has something to do with the growth activity at this age or stress which can cause a sudden drop in glucose levels in the blood. There can be different things or circumstances that can trigger an episode. Such as a traumatic experience, and injury, hormones, etc. In this girls case we have determined that it is a hormone trigger, specifically at the time of a progesterone spike associated with ovulation.   The vet recommended Calcium and Taurine supplementation twice daily. As you know calcium is one of the minerals needed for healthy nerve growth and electrical conductivity, Taurine is an amino acid that works with Calcium. The Vet said she may grow out of it.

So, we took that information and we asked for a referral to a neurologist. This specialist did all of the neurological tests and determined she was fine. She ordered ionized calcium levels along with several other specific blood tests. The results all came back normal. She recommended an MRI to determine if there was an injury or tumor. We declined this step at the time, due to finances but decided if she showed any other neurological symptoms such as falling down or aggression, which could be indicative of an injury or tumor, that we would come back to do the MRI. Six months went by on the Calcium, Taurine supplementation to which we added a heaping tablespoon of Ricotta cheese every morning and every couple of days a heaping bowl of frozen vanilla yogurt with honey in the evening. No incidents. The day we bred her - in at the time of the progesterone spike indicating ovulation that we were waiting for- she had one mild episode then nothing for the entire pregnancy. The episodes started up the second week of lactation when the calcium bolus given at the time of the C-section was gone and 6 hungry puppies were pulling on her calcium/glucose levels. Five months have since passed and she has been just fine - no episodes.

My Recommendations:

1.. If your dog exhibits this head bobbing behavior
    1.. DON'T PANIC!!! This could only worsen the situation by adding additional stress on the dog.
    2.. - give them a bowl of ice cream or frozen vanilla yogurt with honey to get the situation under control. If you don't have any of those then Ensure, Pediasure, Karo syrup all work because of the sugar and or calcium content. Liquids work quicker because they are absorbed into the mucosa of the mouth.
2.. Call your veterinarian and advise of the situation. Schedule an appointment for a visit and have your vet do a health screening with blood work. Odds are the blood work for calcium and sugar will be fine.
3.. Keep a record of each episode, every time one occurs - describe it in great detail, time it occurred - how long, how frequent. Give this info to the vet when you see him.
4.. IF they do not get any worse than the head bobs - don't do anything else but observe and document. If the behavior changes in any way - call the vet, you may need additional assistance at this point.

Two other behaviors I would like to mention briefly are the fly chasing and the circling behaviors. Fly chasing is just that, the dog seems to be chasing and trying to catch imaginary flies. Again, if you call the dog by name he will stop and look at you then resume the behavior. The other is circling. This looks like VERY slow motion tail chasing. Usually in the same direction each time it happens. IF you call the dog they will stop to acknowledge you then start up again. In this case, I go over and give my girl a nudge and she stops and resumes whatever she had started to go outside to do. This seems to happen outdoors only, so I sometimes wonder if bright sunlight is the trigger mechanism for her.   In any event - both of these behaviors are neurological events. Basically harmless. Both of these dogs are on the same calcium and taurine supplementation. The supplementation has basically eradicated the fly chasing in the one dog and the episodes of circling are fewer with the other dog.

In closing I would like to say that these behaviors are basically just annoyances to you and the dog. I would never discourage you from having the dog checked by a Veterinarian. Remember, every dog just like every person is different and they react differently to certain stimuli and medications. I suggest you try this regimen and if the behavior continues see your veterinarian for more extensive testing and follow up.

A Disaster Plan to Protect Your Pals

A Disaster Plan to Protect Your Pals

Tornado, flood, hurricane - whatever the crisis, your pets will need your help.

Natural and man-made disasters can strike without warning. While emergency shelters are made available to humans, they don't allow companion animals due to public health concerns. And, you can't depend on your city or county to have a plan in place for securing pets. Your dog and other pets need you to keep them safe during disasters. To help you develop an effective plan, the American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (ASPCA) offer the following guidelines:

If you evacuate your home, do not leave your pets behind. Ask yourself whether you could safely leave a child in this situation. Even if rescue personnel say you'll be able to retrieve them later, take your pets with you. An unstable situation can deteriorate, making it impossible to return for them. Remember, pets cannot survive on their own, and if they venture out in search of food or refuge, you may lose them.

Make advance arrangements. Don't wait for disaster to strike - devise an evacuation plan for your pet now. Check with your veterinarian, local animal hospital, kennel or shelter to see if you can board your dog or other pets during a disaster. You will need to have medical records ready to submit. To find a pet-friendly hotel in an area where you'd go in an emergency, check PETCO's Pet Business Directory. Another option: Put together a "pet network," in which you have arrangements with someone outside of your immediate area to care for each other's pets in a crisis.

Keep an up-to-date identification tag securely fastened on your pets. If one of your pets gets out or flees from a scary scene, this will greatly increase the chance he'll be returned to you. Take this measure even for indoor cats. Use breakaway collars, and make sure your cat could slip his head out if the collar caught on something. You might also consider getting microchip IDs for your animals.

Bring outdoor pets inside during a storm. Make sure they always have access to a warm, waterproof shelter stocked with ample food and fresh water.

Keep a harness and leash for every dog in your household. During a disaster, your dog may become frightened and pull away from you, slipping the collar over his head. Having a harness for each dog will allow you to control them all. Never let dogs off the leash during heavy rain or a snowstorm. If they become frightened or confused, they may run away.

Keep a carrier for each cat. If you have more than one cat, you may not be able to bring them all to the same place. For each cat, decide on an easily accessible refuge.

Make sure you have extra pet supplies. Stock up on dry and canned food, bottled water, extra leashes and collars, and pet carriers. (Keep these supplies separate from the everyday ones, so you aren't tempted to dip into them when the kibble, for example, runs low. Keep the food rotated so it does not get stale.) Always have at least one week's supply of water in storage for your animals. If the drinking water gets contaminated in a disaster, it's not safe for people or pets.

Keep a backup supply of your pet's regular medications. Ask your veterinarian where you should take your pet if injured. Knowing this in advance could save their life. Stow a first-aid kit and first-aid guidebook, specific to the kinds of pets you have in an easy-to-grab location.

Keep current photographs of your pets with your important documents. If your pet is lost during a disaster, a sharp, recent photo can be used to make flyers.

Keep a "traveling pet emergency bag" on hand. In a grave situation, you might have to evacuate immediately. This waterproof bag should include pet food and dishes, bottled water, treats, a can opener, medications, paper towels and cleaning supplies, copies of your pets' medical records (in their own waterproof container), toys, leashes, harnesses, collars, current photos and contact numbers. For cats, you'll also want to pack disposable litter pans, litter and a scoop. It's best to have one emergency bag for each of your pets.

Received from Terri O'Connor of My Toy Bulldogs

Mischief-Arizona Olde English Bulldogges

~Building a Better Bulldogge~

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