Mischief-Arizona Olde English Bulldogges | ~Building a Better Bulldogge~

Just a note on our way of breeding...

Our sole goal is to make better dogges with each and every litter we produce. We are not simply "puppy producers". Each breeding is very carefully chosen and we agonize over making decisions that can impact generations of Oldes for possibly one hundred years or more! We do NOT own "breeding pairs" or breed multiple breeds of other dogs. We do not beleive in designer breeds. We have dedicated our time and energies to focus on one thing - doing the best we can to improve the Olde English Bulldogge breed by breeding to the IOEBA standards as set forth by the IOEBA. Be cautious if you see the same "breeder" with only a single male and a single female who repeat the breeding, year after year, and sometimes, every cycle. That practice only creates a large quantitiy of the puppies with very similar genetic makeup. If they don't keep back their best puppies, then motives may be questionable on why they chose to breed Olde English Bulldogges.

We also will not do a breeding that we wouldn't want to keep both "pick" male AND "pick" female from. You will rarely see a "Pick of the Litter" puppy available from Mischief-Arizona for sale - "Pick" puppy simply means that it is our favorite at six weeks of age when we make our decision on which pup we are keeping back for the program. We keep the best of the best for further line development in our plans for the future. We won't ever be world reknowned because our focus in on what goes on with our lines here in our home and are not out to market our dogges as a commodity around the world, but we do want to make a few families happy along the road to building a better bulldogge.

The best looking puppy at 6 weeks, may not be the best at one year as the Olde goes through many stages through the first year and then "fills out" until sometimes after the third birthday. The puppy you see on his or her first birthday is rarely the adult dogge you will see at three. Sometimes, the least favorite puppy at 6 weeks is the best of the litter at 2 years and visa versa. The Olde is such a unique breed that you can't truly tell what you have until you put the time and effort into raising the dogge.

We just do the best we can to continue our quest to "Build a Better Bulldogge"

Respectfully,

Mischief-Arizona Olde English Bulldogges

It's all for the love of the breed.

IOEBA OEB Breed Standards

REVISED

Olde English Bulldogge Standards as set forth by the IOEBA

(Taken directly from the IOEBA site)

General Description : The ideal Olde English Bulldogge is a loyal, courageous dog of medium size with a large powerful head and stout muscular body.

Olde English Bulldogges are athletic and most importantly of very good health, males are free breeders and females are free whelpers. The Olde English Bulldogge is devoid of all breathing issues and is capable of enjoying outdoor activity without concern except in extreme heat of cold.

The temperament is very stable and trustworthy making them a loyal companion, capable protector and the ultimate family member.

Old English Bulldogges thrive on pleasing their owners and are very trainable.

Their lifespan is between 10 and 14 years.

Head : Large and high, moderately sunken between the eyes (medial furrow).
The circumference of the head should be equal to or greater than the dog's height at the shoulder. A narrow head or one that appears too small for the body is a fault.

Ears : Rose ears set well on the sides of the head are preferred. Dropped ears are acceptable as long they are small, not “hound like”. Pricked ears that stand up on top of the head (tulip ears) are a disqualifying fault.

Muzzle : Broad, deep and short with moderate wrinkling. The bite is undershot with the bottom jaw turning up noticeably. Lower canines should not protrude. Muzzle too long (more than 3 inches), scissor bite or even bite are disqualifying faults. Muzzle should be no shorter than 1 ½”. Wry jaw is a disqualifying fault.

Eyes : Wide apart and of moderate size. Any color is acceptable. However, odd eyes (one dark, one blue or light) should be considered unpreferred. Misshapen or bugged eyes are a serious fault. Lacking pigment around the eyes is undesirable. Crossed eyes or non-symmetrically shaped eyes are a disqualifying fault.

Nose : Broad with open nostrils (nares) with no sign of air restriction. The nose should not be pushed up between the eyes. From the stop to the end of the nose must be at least one and one half inches. The nose should be a solid color. Lacking pigment is a serious fault. A nose lacking all pigment is a disqualifying fault.

Neck : Short to medium in length and very muscular flowing into the shoulders and should not be set on the dog so it appears to stop at the shoulders.

Chest : Ribs should be well sprung (rounded) and the chest wide and deep. Depth of chest should be at least to the elbows.
A hollow or narrow chest (slab sided) should be considered a serious fault.

Back : Males should appear square and balanced. Females should appear similar with consideration given for body length. Short with a very slight rise from the shoulders to a slight drop in the croup is preferred. A level back is acceptable as long as the tail does not come straight off the top of the back.

Shoulders : Shoulders should be well laid back with significant angulations to allow for good movement. Straight shoulders are a fault.

Legs : Forelegs should be straight and wide apart, neither bowing out nor turning in. There should be significant bone substance. Elbows should be relatively close to the body. Lacking bone and substance is very undesirable. Elbows that are loose or “fiddle fronts” are a disqualifying fault. “East / West” forelegs are a serious fault.

Rear legs should exhibit significant bend of stifle so to allow for good movement. They should be well muscled. Straight or “posty” rear legs are a serious fault. Cow hocks are a disqualifying fault.

Movement : Dogs should have a balanced gait that drives off the rear and is complimented by reach allowing the dog to cover ground with a sense of power. Dogs should single track. Pacing or crabbing is a serious fault.

Feet: Round, tight both front and rear, and the pasterns should be strong.
Weak pasterns and/or splayed feet are disqualifying faults.

Height : Males - 18 to 20 inches at the shoulder. Females - 17 to 19 inches at the shoulder.

Weight : Between 50 to 70 lbs. for females and 65 to 85 lbs. for males. Although height and weight above the standard is to be discouraged, there is no penalty as long as the dog is well proportioned, otherwise correct and balanced.

Color : Any color, except merle, is acceptable with no preference for one over another. The coat is short. A wavy coat or a long coat is a disqualifying fault. There should be no signs of feathering on the legs or neck area, also a disqualifying fault.

Tail : A pump handle tail that naturally reaches the hock is preferred, screwed short or a docked tails are acceptable. The pump handle tail should be carried low and not over the back of the dog.

Temperament : Disposition should be outgoing and happy. While a watchful nature may be expected at home, human aggression without provocation is a disqualifying fault.

Revised by the IOEBA on July 4, 2006

IOEBA Breeder Code of Ethics

(Taken directly from the IOEBA site)

The International Olde English Bulldogge Association ask that all breeders subscribe to the IOEBA - Code of Ethics as well as promote the highest standards among breeders and owners and to encourage and support sportsmanship and cooperation in the preservation, advancement and improvement of IOEBA registered breeds.

† I will keep accurate records of my dogs. These records will include registration certificates, stud service contracts, pedigrees, vaccination and breedings records.

† I will maintain absolute identification of all my dogs, examples: photos, tattoos, microchips, registration papers and pedigrees.

† I shall plan each breeding with the objective of the improvement and advancement of the breed.

† I will thoughtfully select my stud dog and brood bitch with an emphasis on good health, correct conformation, temperament, working drive and ability while all the time referring to the IOEBA breed standard and the principles of genetics.

† I will maintain the highest standards of health and care for my dogs and I will provide sufficient water, food, shelter and veterinary attention as needed.

† I will show good judgment in the sale of my puppies. I will not sell my dogs/puppies to dog wholesalers, brokers or retailers.

† I will provide each buyer with IOEBA registration papers at the time of sale, unless a written agreement stating otherwise has been signed by the buyer.

† I will help and educate the potential clients as to the basic characteristics, both physical and mental, of my breed to assist in determining if it is the right breed for them.

† I will provide proper socialization for all my dogs and puppies and interact with each daily.

† I will not be involved in or use my dogs for any illegal activity. None of my dogs are intended for any illegal activity and will not be sold for such use.

† I will refrain from releasing my puppies to their new owners until they are at least seven weeks old, or eight weeks if they are to be shipped.

The IOEBA Code of Ethics has been designed as a guideline for breeders and fanciers. It is not a legal document and should not be construed as a rule or regulation to be enforced by punishment, it carries no enforceable punishment. A breeder's adherence to the Code of Ethics is voluntary.

Bulldogge Philosophy

We strive to do the best we can in all we do and learn alot as we go along on this endeavor but we can't do it alone and there is so much to learn from our registry most off all by following their Breed Standard and the IOEBA Breeder Code of Ethics. But what we learn from our fellow breeders along the way is priceless to all of us here in Arizona.

Below is a collection of what makes a good breeder collected by another breeder that makes us step back and think about what we are doing and why we are doing it. We hope to live up to these "standards" as well. We hope you take these points to heart if you are a breeder or are considering "just having a litter":

Best Breeding Rules to Live By

1. Remember that the animals you select for breeding today will have an impact on the breed for many years to come. Keep that thought firmly in mind when you choose breeding stock.

2. You can choose only two individuals per generation. Choose only the best, because you will have to wait for another generation to improve what you start with. Breed only if you expect the progeny to be better than both parents.

3. You cannot expect statistical predictions to hold true in a small number of animals (as in one litter of puppies). Statistics only apply to large populations.

4- A pedigree is a tool to help you learn the good and bad attributes that your dog is likely to exhibit or reproduce. A pedigree is only as good as the dog it represents.

5. Breed for a total dog, not just one or two characteristics. Don't follow fads in your breed, because they are usually meant to emphasize one or two features of the dog at the expense of the soundness and function of the whole.

6. Quality does not mean quantity. Quality is produced by careful study, having a good mental picture of what you are trying to achieve, having patience to wait until the right breeding stock is available and to evaluate what you have already produced, and above all, having a breeding plan that is at least three generations ahead of the breeding you do today.

7. Remember that skeletal defects are the most difficult to change.

8. Don't bother with a good dog that cannot produce well. Enjoy him (or her) for the beauty that he represents but don't use him in a breeding program.

9. Use out-crosses very sparingly. For each desirable will have to eliminate in succeeding generations.

10. Inbreeding is a valuable tool, being the fastest method to set good characteristics and type. It brings to light hidden traits that need to be eliminated from the breed.

11. Breeding does not "create" anything. What you get is what was there to begin with. It may have been hidden for many generations, but it was there.

12. Discard the old client about the littermate of that great producer being just as good to breed to. Littermates seldom have the same genetic make-up.

13. Be honest with yourself. There are no perfect dogs (or b###hes) nor are there perfect producers. You cannot do a competent job of breeding if you cannot recognize the faults and virtues of the dogs you plan to breed.

14. Hereditary traits are inherited equally from both parents. Do not expect to solve all of your problems in one generation.

15. If the worst puppy in your last litter is no better than the worst puppy in your first litter, you are not making progress. Your last litter should be your last litter.

16. If the best puppy in your last litter is no better than the best puppy in your first litter, you are not making progress. Your last litter should be your last litter.

17. Do not choose a breeding animal by either the best or the worst that he (or she) has produced. Evaluate the total get by the attributes of the majority.

18. Keep in mind that quality is a combination of soundness and function. It is not merely the lack of faults, but the positive presence of virtues. It is the whole dog that counts.

19. Don't allow personal feelings to influence your choice of breeding stock. The right dog for your breeding program is the right dog, whoever owns it. Don't ever decry a good dog; they are too rare and wonderful to be demeaned by pettiness.

2O. Don't be satisfied with anything but the best. The second best is never good enough.